Stripes are one of the first examples of woven textiles which continue to be seen in the fashion industry throughout history. While today you might consider stripes to be an endlessly classic style—patriotic, even—the design has origins which are less than favorable.
In the middle ages, striped clothing began to be a sign of an outcast or someone who needed to be contained.
This bold pattern is hard to ignore and therefore used to be linked to individuals who did not want to play by social rules. As history has taught us, time and time again, society becomes incredibly fearful of those who reject the conventional so this aversion to stripes only grew into the 13th century, when Europe’s sumptuary laws made it a legal obligation for certain types of citizens to wear the style.
The deeper you dive into the study of stripes, the more fitting the pattern seems to be for a play featuring circus characters as Something Wicked This Way Comes. John Major explains that a clown or circus member is “a figure whose humor derives from his license to transgress the boundaries of orderly society.” Stripes can be jarring, perfect for characters whose grins are menacing and intentions sinister. While stripes never truly lost their connection to deviance, by the 18th century the design became a much more ordinary part of fashion in Western cultures.
Beginning in the early 20th century, as a symbol of French style, the striped shirt was one of the first items of casual clothing separates sold by Coco Chanel in 1917. The marine colors and comfort of knit jersey, once standing for hard work on the water, now symbolized lounging around on the French Riviera. The burgeoning sportswear industry helped ensure this shirt was a success in France and eventually all over the world.
The stripes were also a symbol of freedom for women who didn’t always want to dress in lace and frills. This menswear style became a liberating alternative to corsets and bustles. And, yet, it was one step up from the plain men’s undergarments (like the henley shirt), making it just suitable enough for casual wear.
During the 1920s and 1930s Chanel was bringing the stripe to high fashion, but during the 1950s the striped shirt became a part of youth culture, adopted by James Dean, Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot, Paul Newman, and Marlon Brando, among others. On the TV show, Denice the Menace, the titular character is always seen in a striped shirt, ensuring that the look became popular for children’s wear as well as adults.
It’s long been understood that summer style is defined by nautical striped clothing, from dresses to sweaters. But the classic pattern is getting a 2022 makeover, thanks to new bold, exaggerated lines and a mixture of unexpected colorways.
Gone are the days when stripes were only reserved for casual daytime dressing. At her Spring 2022 runway collection, Tory Burch took the pattern from boating basic to exhilarating sartorial staple with super-sized striped dresses. Several other designers are also proving how stripes can be an eveningwear hero—see Harris Reed’s expertly tailored suits and Carolina Herrera’s dramatic gowns. And it’s not just the neutral black-and-white motifs that are having a moment. Prismatic stripes were major parts of Studio 189, Kenneth Ize, and Colville’s presentations.
If you’re looking for ways to hit refresh on your traditional summer stripes, you’re in the right place. You can go big with a head-to-toe matching set or take the effortless approach with a one-and-done dress.
